Spain: New School vs. Old School. And Under $20!

Spain, I love you.  Here are two totally different wines, both under $20.  Spain is a mix of traditional and modern, as I have touched on before.  Can you guess which wine is the new school and which is the old school by the labels? Pretty easy to figure out, even if you don't have a design degree.  (I photographed them in front of my Virgen del Carmen painting, thought it was fitting!)  The labels are both beautiful in their own way and I really appreciate the design of both.  I also really appreciate both of these wines, though they really could not be more different.  And while the new school version would probably be most peoples choice here, including mine, do not discount the old school.  If you taste the old school, you will certainly recognize some of the flavors in the new school.  Hopefully.  Hopefully, because I think the best modern wines in Spain have not lost sight of the traditional.  They should aim to marry the terroir and grape varieties of Spain with modern vilification techniques.  So here are the two Spanish gems, both readily available in the $10-$20 price range.  Search and Enjoy!


Primitivo Quiles "Cono 4"  $10.99
This bottling of Primitivo Quiles "Cono 4" was purchased at one of my favorite wine shops in NYC, Chambers Street Wines.  This wine is made 100% from the Monastrell grape which is also known as Mourvèdre or Mataró.  There are flavors of fig, truffle, medicinal herbs, pine, caramel, candle wax and chestnut.  There is a light strawberry syrup note as well, but this wine is more on the funkier side rather than the fruitier side.  This is a very distinctive wine made in a slightly oxidized style.  And while I like this wine a lot, they have a slightly higher end cuveé which retails for about $20-$25 called "Raspay," which is one of my favorite all time wines.  It is has a bit more of a bright fruit character than this wine and is well worth seeking out.  I plan to review the "Raspay" as some point very soon as I have a few bottles tucked away of this unique wine.  88 Points.

Mira Salinas 2005  $15-$23
I purchased a case of this wine last year after having a bottle.  I do not remember where I had the first bottle or where I purchased it from, and I went back and tried to track it down, but to no avail.  I may have purchased it from PJ Wines, as they have an excellent selection of Spanish wines, though their price of $22.99 seems a bit high, especially since Zachy's, which also serves the New York City area has it for only $15, which is a much better deal!  Both of these shops are a bit out of the way but offer Manhattan delivery.  It pays to shop around!  This is a pretty big wine, especially for the price.  It is 15% alcohol, but does not taste too alcoholic and it is not too jammy either.  It is pretty well balanced, though I think the substantial tannins will benefit from a few more years in bottle to allow them to mellow.  I see the wine drinking well over the next 5-10 years.  But it is tempting now, with a fairly hedonistic nose of cinnamon, vanilla, dark cherry fruit and toasty oak.  There are also flavors of plum and chocolate in this deep crimson colored wine.  It starts out like a much pricier California Cabernet or Zinfandel, but begins to shed that character a bit to reveal more of its Spanish terroir the longer it is open.  The more earthy elements begin to emerge after the initial hedonism subsides.  This wine is a blend of 65% Monastrell, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Garnacha, and is aged for 20 months in French oak, 60-70% new.  This wine is a pleasure to drink, and anyone could appreciate it's charms.  Robert Parker's Wine Advocate rated this wine 93 Points, not bad for under $20!  I am pretty close on this one too.  91 Points.

Edmunds St. John Wine Dinner

Edmunds St. John Winery, in conjunction with Chambers Street Wines, held a wine dinner at Belcourt restaurant this past Thursday.  The dinner proved to be a lot of fun as I was joined by several close friends as well as some new friends we made that night.  And as my good friend Bailey said that night, "I see best friend tattoos out of this."  I was also with my fellow foodie friend Alison, and this was her first "wine dinner," and she was in rare form that night.  By her own admission, "I am even more of a pistol when I am drinking, FYI!"  Alison, that's a good thing.  Anyway, she provided a huge amount of amazing one liners throughout the night, some of which I cannot repeat here, but that we will all be laughing about when we talk about what a great time we had together. We roasted the restaurant a bit as it was a bit loud and the food was mediocre.  Though I have to say the bread and butter were as good as I have had anywhere (honest)!  And we tried a lot of wines.  Nine in fact.  We started with a rosé, moved to a white, then the balance were all red.  The first two being reds made from the Gamay grape, which is primarily grown in the Beaujolais and Loire Valley regions of France.  The last five being Rhone style wines or blends.  So they were either made from 100% Syrah, or a combination of Syrah and other grapes such as Grenache.  The Edmunds St. John Winery is a boutique winery located in Berkeley, California.  They source their fruit primarily from single vineyards and craft small lots of French style terroir driven wines.  Steve Edmunds was on hand at the dinner, and although it was too loud in the restaurant for him to speak to the group (and he did try), he did make the rounds and we had a chance to discuss his wines and wine in general.  I think if there was one thing that I came away with regarding his wines, is that he truly lets the character of the fruit and terroir shine though.  The wines, especially the reds, had the real purity of the fruit in tact.  Most of these wines are fairly reasonably priced as well.  Here are the wines we tasted:

2009 El Dorado County, Witters Vineyard Bone-Jolly Gamay Rosé
The rosé was the color of watermelon juice, and there were certainly hints of watermelon in the flavor profile as well.  There were also elements of strawberry, candle wax, rust, shell fish, and tart apple jolly rancher candies.  Additional were also flavors of rose petals, melon, cherry cola and crayola crayon.  I am not a rosé guy, but what guy is a rosé guy really.  More of a lady drink, but hey, when in Rome!  LOL.  86 Points

2004 Paso Robles, Tablas Creek Vineyard Roussane
Our white of the night.  The nose was very interesting indeed.  Medium to dark yellow in color, with scents of par, lemon zest, almonds, chalk, nutmeg, inner tube, pineapple, toasted oak, and baked apple.  Interesting wine.  87 Points.

2008 El Dorado County, Witters Vineyard Bone-Jolly Gamay
This light bodied red has flavors of strawberry jelly, sour cherry, and roses.  There is a bit of salinity to the wine and it is medium garnet in color with a bit of lively acidity and a short dry finish.  There is a touch of earthiness to this wine as well.  85 Points.

2008 El Dorado County, Barsotti Ranch Porphyry Gamay
This Gamay is more strawberry preserves as opposed to the jelly of the previous wine.  There are notes of pepper, roses, and tart cherry.  There is a light effervescence and a lively acidity to the wine.  It finishes with nice bright fruit.  87 Points.

2005 Sonoma Valley, Parmelee Hill Vineyard Syrah
We switched to  the Syrah/Rhone style wines at this point.  This one had notes of jammy plum and stewed black cherry.  There were also elements of black pepper and shell fish.  It had a nice chewy cherry mouth feel as well.  88 Points.

2007 El Dorado County, Wylie and Fenaughty Vineyards, "That Old Black Magic"
This wine is a blend of Syrah and Grenache.  It has elements of smoke, dark fruit, liquorish, sour cherries.  The mouth feel is fairly plush and the finish is a bit tart.  88 Points.

2008 Mendocino County, Cuvée Fairbairn Syrah
This wine's production is bio dynamic and organic.  It has flavors of blueberry, caramel, campfire, brine, and plush red fruit.  Interesting.  88 Points.

2005 San Luis Obispo County, Bassetti Vineyard Syrah
Things really started getting interesting at the end.  This wine is farmed with no irrigation, so the vines are probably a bit more stressed, contributing to a more complex wine.  There are great aromatics of dark chocolate, tobacco, brine, asparagus, and fig.  Yum.  90 Points.

1996 Les Côtes Sauvages, "Fin de Siècle"
A blend of Rhone grapes, Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre.  The last wine was a surprise that was not on the tasting list.  Steve brought it from his personal collection.  It was most certainly the wine of the evening.  Probably due to it's being more aged than the other wines.  Flavors of cherry cola mixed with olive tapenade and smokey earth to make this mature wine an exciting experience.  Wow.  92 Points.

FREE Burgunday Wine Tasting at Le Du Wines, Saturday, May 15, 4-7.

Hey fellow wine lovers.  If you want to try some amazing wines that are rare and expensive for free, then you should check out this tasting.  Burgundian wines are the essence of terroir.  Here is the scoop from Le Du. 

FREE UPCOMING IN-STORE TASTING...
Big Burgundy Blow-out!
Saturday, May 15th from 4-7pm
Burgundy's Cote d'Or has mythical stature. Even to the wine novice, the region's name has instant recognition. The wines of the Cote d'Or are some of the most dazzlingly complex, rare, and expensive wines produced in the entire world. For many a wine lover, once you've experienced these magnificent wines, there's no turning back. You're hooked. You simply need to experience that next, ethereal bottle. For the Burgundy lover, a chance to taste multiple wines, side by side from some of the region's very top producers is nothing short of ecstasy. For the Burgundy beginner, it can be a singular, rare opportunity to experience and learn about these great wines. Here at Le Du's, we certainly love Burgundy, so that's why on Saturday the 15th of May, from 4-7pm we've arranged for what we feel will be an absolutely amazing tasting of sixteen Burgundies, from eleven of the region's best producers.

The Cote d'Or is the most hallowed, yet most misunderstood strip of land, devoted to viticulture in the world. The economy of nearly every town and village along its mere length of 30-some miles is based upon the production and sale of the world's greatest, most distinctive expressions of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Yet, we don't recognize these wines merely from the grape varieties used; we recognize them by their specific place of origin. Their places of origin are not just France and Burgundy, but right down to the village, and far beyond that to the specific plots of land, and rows of vines. We call these wines by names such as Gevrey-Chambertin, Chassagne-Montrachet and Nuits-Saint-Georges, and specifically, get down to the Premiers and Grands Crus; for example Les Gruenchers in Chambolle-Musigny, or the great Clos de La Roche of Morey. You might see how this place as a whole can be misunderstood. Our tasting on Saturday will allow you to try these wines and understand what makes each one unique, to understand and taste what we mean when we talk about terroir. This tasting is not to be missed!

The wines to be poured:

Bourgogne Blanc 2008 - Bernard Moreau et Fils
Marsannay Blanc "Plantelle" 2008 - Domaine Michel Magnien
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot 2007 - Bernard Moreau et Fils
Mersault "Tillets" 2008 - Boyer-Martenot
Saint-Romain Rouge 2008 - Alain Gras
Bourgogne Rouge 2007 - Domaine Michel Magnien
Volnay 2007 - Domaine Michel Lafarge
Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru "Aux Vergelesses" 2007 - Domaine Simon Bize
Vosne Romanee 2007 - Remoissenet
Chambolle Musigny 2007 - Dujac Pere et Fils
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combottes 2007 - Dujac
Clos de La Roche Grand Cru 2007 - Dujac
Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2006 - Domaine Denis Bachelet
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Gruenchers 2007 - David Duband
Cote de Nuits Villages "Clos du Chapeau" 2007 - Domaine de l'Arlot
Nuits Saint George 1er Cru Clos de L'Arlot 2007 - Domaine de l'Arlot

Montevertine 2004 Sangiovese at Diner Restaurant, Williamsburg

My good friend and fellow wine lover Vanessa was in town from London this week and she came out to visit us in Williamsburg and see our son Wylie.  After he went to bed, Vanessa and I went around the corner to Diner, (which quintessentially represents the neighborhood I think), as I wanted Van to get a sense of where we lived.  Plus she was craving comfort food as she was missing home, so there you go.  Anyway, the wine list is not huge at Diner, but the selection is usually pretty good, although I think the reds tend to be on the lighter side, and typically from alternative French appellations.  Hence the large number of Neal Rosenthal wines on the menu.  Neal Rosenthal is a famous New York wine importer.  He is interviewed in the movie Mondovino at Diner, so there must be some connection there!  We ended up ordering the 2004 Montevertine Sangiovese.  I love Sangiovese, which is the primary grape used in the region of Tuscany in Italy, and is the grape that is used to make Chianti.  I had a lentil salad with fresh herbs and Vanessa had the Romaine Salad with a poached egg.  For supper Vanessa had the steak and fries, and I had coq au vin.  The food all around was fantastic as usual, we both thoroughly enjoyed our meal and the Montevertine was a good foil to our rich dishes.  Vanessa and I have shared a lot of great wine together around the world and our evening at Diner was no exception.  Cheers Van!

Montevertine 2004 Sangiovese  $45
This is a nice traditional style Sangiovese.  There are light flavors of plum and cherry, it is medium bodied and garnet in color.  There are a decent amount of tannins and the acidity is solid.  I think it is still a bit young, will probably be better with a few more years in bottle, but still an attractive wine, though not super memorable.  Solid.  87 Points.

Northern Italy: Barolo vs. Amarone

We had a couple of wines from Northern Italy this weekend.  They were both tasted with an aged Gouda from Bedford Cheese Shop and dark chocolate with sea salt, almonds, and olive oil from Mast Brother's Chocolate.  The wines could not be more different in style and taste, but it was prudent to have the 2005 Terre del Barolo first as it is more delicate than the 2006 La Vigilia Amarone.  In fact, you can't really even compare the two wines they are so different in style.  Amarone is a heavy weight, while the Barolo is more fly weight, for example.  They both went well with our chocolate and cheese though. 

Terre del Barolo 2005 Barolo  $30.00
This was an impulse purchase at Uva Wines in Brooklyn.  I thought $30 buck for a 2005 Barolo, let's give it a whirl.  I did find this bottle of wine a bit cheaper on the internet, by the way.  But the description they had at Uva hooked me, "Yes, this really tastes like Barolo, even at this price."  And, in fact, it's true.  This is Barolo at $30, or less if you shop around.  It was not the biggest or most interesting Barolo ever, but it would easily pair with a nice bowl of pasta or a pizza.  It was light to medium in body, and there were aromas of fig, tar, caramel, and sour cherry.  The acidity was very fresh as well and cut the richness of the Gouda cheese.  If I could get this a bit cheaper I would consider keeping a couple bottles around.  Normally a decent 2005 Barolo needs a few more years to mature, since this one is on the lighter side, I think it is drinking well now.  86-87 Points.


La Vigilia Amarone Valpolicella 2006  $25.00
This is a bottle my good friend Aaron recently brought over.  We did not get a chance to drink it together, and I could not resist cracking into it.  We both really love Amarone, though it is a wine which can be difficult to pair, as it has a very distinctive character due to how it is made.  But it went well with the cheese and chocolate, but in a more dessert-like fashion.  Amarone is different from other wines, in that the grapes are partially dried prior to pressing, as opposed to being pressed right away with most wines.  This concentrates the sugars and gives the wine a very concentrated sweet fruit character.  It tastes like you added a dash of port to a red wine, for example.  It is a wine that drinks great on its own, but it is a big wine.  14.5% alcohol.  The La Vigilia had a dark redish brown brick color, there is a nose of cherry pie, petrol, and spiced holiday cake.  There is also a rich vanilla note, and a slight tartness and slightly dry tannins.  Could even use a couple more years to come together, but delicious now.  90-91 Points.

South African Wine Safari Tasting at Union Square Wines

Coming off of the fabulous Magnum Opus dinner, I didn't think my week could get much better.  But it did.  Andre Shearer of Cape Classics was in town and my friend Shabnam and I attended a tasting of South African wines (that's the three of us at the event).  Andre is the founder of Cape Classics, the largest and most well known importer of wines from South Africa.  Arguably, Andre and Cape Classics have really put South African wines on the map, so to speak.  Most people are not too familiar with South African wines, or are even aware that wines are produced there.  But, in fact, there is a huge wine growing region there, and it is very diverse, and extremely beautiful.  If you have never been to Cape Town and the surrounding area, it is one of the most picturesque and amazing places in the world.  I have been there three times and I can tell you that anyone who has been there would tell you the same thing.  When you go there and you taste the quality and variety of wines that are produced, it is hard not to believe that there are world class wines coming out of South Africa.  Having been there and fallen in love with Cape Town and the wines, I have been a regular consumer, especially of Kanonkop Kadette.  It has been my everyday go to red wine for years.  I buy a couple of cases every year and have done so for many years now.  I think you would be hard pressed to find a more complex and drinkable red wine at its price point, which is about $12.99, though it comes down to around $10 when you buy it by the case and get the discount at Union Square Wines.  I reckon that South African wines will continue to become more well known, especially since the World Cup is being held there and a lot of attention will be drawn to the region.  At the tasting Andre discussed the wines of South Africa and shared a lot of really great stories with us.  It was a fairly intimate affair, there were three tables of about ten people each, and we were served a flight of seven wines, one white and six reds.  One of the things that Andre continued to highlight, was the great quality to value of South African wines.  I have to say I totally agree, and this holds true at all price points.  Some of the wines from the tasting lean towards the pricey side, especially these days, but I can tell you that they are comparable with wines that cost two and three times as much.  I was a believer before the tasting, and am doubly so now!   Here are the wines that were tasted.

Raats 2006 Chenin Blanc Estate  $14.99
Chenin Blanc is the white grape of South African wine.  There are great Chardonnay's and Sauvignon Blanc's as well, but Chenin really sings there.  This one had a really great citrus nose, with notes of lemon zest and cantaloupe.  It was straw yellow in color, with good acidity and there were additional flavors of vanilla and parmigiano reggiano.  A great refreshing summer wine.  87 Points. 

Kanonkop Estate 2007 Pinotage  $37.99
If you want an introduction to the signature grape of South African reds, Pinotage, this is a great starting point.  Or the Kadette, but that's a blend, and this one is more than just an everyday wine.  This wine is still very young and it will probably age well for 10 years or longer.  It has medium body, good acidity and tannins, and there are flavors of fresh cracked pepper, smoked camp fire, dried Italian herbs, mint and cocoa.  90 Points.

Rudi Schultz 2006 Syrah  $34.99
The other grape that is doing amazing things in South Africa is Syrah, also known as Shiraz.  Syrah can be very different where it is grown well in the world.  Syrah in California, Syrah in the Rhone region of southern France and Shriaz in Australia are the most well known.  In South Africa it has its own voice as well, and an amazing one at that.  This is a wine that everyone should try, and it may be one of the best, if not the best Syrah out of South Africa.  Since 2002 every vintage has been rated 90 points or higher by Wine Spectator.  This one is no exception.  It is a medium bodied Syrah, with a hedonistic nose of chocolate, sweet spicy toasted wood, candied cherries, kirsch, and creme de menthe.  While the nose is huge it is not over powering in the mouth and even tasted a bit closed on the finish.  It may need a bit more time to finish coming together.  It is not overly jammy and does not taste cooked at all, which I find can be a problem with some Syrah's elsewhere.  Wine Spectator rated this one a 93, I would say that we are pretty close in agreement.  92 Points.

Kanonkop Estate 2004 Paul Sauer  $44.99
This is a Bordeaux style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc.  Andre noted that it has a very left bank Bordeaux style.  I was thinking almost the same thing as it reminded me of a possible ringer for the 1994 L'Evangile I wrote about in my Five Decades of Bordeaux posting, though that is a right bank Bordeaux.  L'Evangile, by the way, can typically sell for a couple hundred bucks a bottle, or more, depending on the vintage.   Needless to say, I loved this wine from go.  It has an eclectic mix of flavors with that day after camp fire nose, wet earth, smoked game, chocolate and caramel.  There is great acidity, fine tannins, and a bright sweet red fruit mouth feel.  I bet this one is going to age very well.  Exotic and delicious.  93 Points.

De Toren 2007 Fusion V  $49.99
If the kanonkop was the L'Evangile, then the De Toren was the Le Gay, at least in terms of how those wines paired in the Five Decades of Bordeaux tasting.  The De Toren was a slightly more balanced and restrained version of the Paul Sauer.  There is a nose of marzipan and starchy pasta water.  There is still a smokey dark fruit component and the tannins are balanced and fine.  Not as quirky and forward as the Kanonkop, but equally intriguing.  A pleasure to drink.  91 Points.

Thelema 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, The Mint  $52.99
Now this is an interesting wine as well.  Similar to the Sauer and the De Toren, but also some other weird tropical stuff going on too.  The nose is brine, mint, and fennel.  But there are also aromas of coconut and banana, piña colada, and vanilla ice cream.  It's medium bodied and the acidity is there as well.  The dark smokey thing is there and the mouth feel is silky.  Pairs well with the previous two wines.  Nice (Borat voice).  92 Points.

Rustenberg 2005 Peter Barlow  $59.99
The nose on the Rustenberg was a bit more closed than the previous wines.  But there are some interesting things in there never the less.  There is a wine barrel note, also ketchup and BBQ sauce.  There is cherry fruit and a shell fish component.  The wine is medium bodied and the acidity is also nice.  Probably will show better with a bit of age.  90 Points.

Well, that wraps up this posting.  As you may have noted, a smokey quality is a signature flavor to many South African red wines.  I personally love it, but it may not be for everyone.  All the wines were great, some may be a bit more pricey, and even though I think the Paul Sauer, De Toren, and Thelema were the top scores, the Schultz Syrah represents great value to quality.  And the Wine Spectator ratings seem to stand behind this as well.  But hey, that still might be too much to spend.  So even though we did not taste it, try the Kanonkop Kadette as an intro to South African wines, at that price point I don't think anyone could have any regrets. 

Magnum Opus - Suckling Pig Roast Dinner

So once again I had the pleasure of attending another great wine dinner thrown by master bespoke tailor Duncan Quinn and Justin Christoph of the Manhattan Wine Company.  We dined at The Breslin at the Ace Hotel here in Manhattan.  The center piece of the evening was an entire roast suckling pig served to us at the chef's table.  It was a bit Lord of the Flies, but it was amazing.  I still can't believe I ate a pig ear!  The side dishes were equally amazing, the Caesar salad was one of the best I have had and the potatoes cooked with duck fat were legendary.  Spinach and roasted fennel were nice too to get some green in there.  While the pig was the center of the table, it was not the star of the evening.  The real stars were the wines.  It was an eclectic mix of wines, so I was not sure what to expect, but I went in with an open mind.  All the bottles were magnums, or double bottles, hence the name of the dinner.  Justin said he chose wines that could stand up to a roast pig, and they certainly did, and went beyond that as well.  Usually wine dinners have highs and lows, but these wines were all amazing.  And if it looks like we were having a lot of fun, we were!  Here is a recap of the magnums that were served. 

Joguet-Chinon Les Varennes 1999

Made from the Cabernet Franc grape, this Chinon from Charles Joguet was still very youthful for a wine that many people don't typically think can age.  There is a distinctive bright berry, cranberry nose.  There are also smoke, wet earth, pepper, sour cherry, liquorish, caramel, and herbal notes.  Tannins are very light, and finish is still a bit closed.  Well done.  90 Points.

Château Mouton Rothschild 1976
The Mouton was brick and sanguine in color.  There is a dark smokey oak nose to the wine that is very hedonistic.  There are tones of really dark black cherry fruit and cassis on the nose and palate.  It has a pretty big mouth feel, and although the finish lingers it seems a tad flat compared to the intense aromatics.  I have to say I would have thought this wine would have been over the hill because the 1970's were not the most memorable decade for Bordeaux.  But it was not at all over the hill, and was drinking wonderfully.  Justin reminded me that the larger the wine bottle the more slowly the wine will age due to the subtle exchange of air from cork to wine, hence more wine equals longer aging.  Also, the wine came from a great old cellar in Switzerland, so it was probably kept at a slightly lower temperature than most cellars, thus a more youthful tasting wine.  Definitely the surprise of the evening.  92 Points.

Château Musar 1978

This blend of Cabernet, Syrah, and Cinsault hails from Château Musar in Lebanon.  Yes Lebanon.  In the Middle East.  And it was a wine out of left field for me, because who would think of wine coming from Lebanon.  But you know what, this was the wine of the night in my book, and many others as well.  Such as my friend Danielle who is pictured with yours truly at the dinner.  Anyway, this wine is bright, bright sweet fruit.  There is a mix of sweet smokey and mild earthy flavors.  There are also hints of Indian spices, dried fruits, Amarone, mesquite barbecue sauce and rich caramel.  An absolutely delicious and unexpected wine which leaves you wanting more.  95 Points.

Verset Cornas 1990

Danielle reckoned this would be the wine of the evening, and going in I probably would have agreed.  Danielle and I came out with a slight edge for the Musar, but Justin thought it was the Cornas.  That is the beauty of wine, it comes down to individual taste.  That said, this was a fabulous wine that continued the trend of eclectic flavors and aromas of the earlier wines.  It was dark garnet in color, and smelled of dark red fruit, roasted game, earth, medicinal herbs, smoked paprika, olives, and cornichons.  The wine really just kept getting more complex in the glass, developing additional nuances.  Cornas is located in the Rhone region of southern France, and Verset was one of the most traditional in style.  From what was discussed at the dinner and what I can find out, Verset is no longer really being produced.  Its maker Noel Verset is in his 90's and has sold off the vineyards.  This was truly a blessing to be able to try a wine that will probably be impossible to ever try again.  92 Points.

Sean Thackrey, Orion 1989

The last red that we tasted was at first thought to be off, but in fact, it was not.  It opened up into an incredibly full bodied wine, which I reckon still has a long life ahead.  The wine is very dense and dark, with aromas of beef bullion, black cherries, sultana raisins, dark chocolate, mocha, and sweet toasted oak.  There is still a lot of structure to this wine, it's big, but it works.  The finish keeps going.  A real pleasure to drink, and a very close runner up to the Musar!  Sean Thackrey is a very colorful winemaker, and I could not find a website for him or his wines, but they seem to be widely available.  93-94 Points.

Riesling Gold Kap S.A. Piüm 1997

The final wine of evening was a white wine, a semi sweet Riesling, which was served with dessert.  There was chocolate torte cake, but Justin and I paired it with the hazelnut gelato.  What a great combo!  The Riesling was somewhere in between sweet and dry and tasted of tart apricot and nectarine.  There were also hints of citrus, roasted nuts, flint, lychee and cherry flavored Flintstones vitamins.  A very interesting wine and look at the length of that bottle.  90 Points.

Taste California Terroir: Winemaker Dinner with Edmunds St. John!

There is a great and affordable wine dinner next week in conjunction with Chamber's Street Wines.  You can click on the description below to find out more on their website.  Please let me know if anyone is interested and we can maybe try and organize a few people to go, but please remember it will probably sell out quickly as it is a pretty good deal.  Cheers, Greg

"Steve Edmunds and Cornelia St. John started Edmunds St. John in 1985 with the intention of creating top-quality, old-world style wines from California that would speak of a sense of place. If there are any wines that make a case for California terrior it’s these defined by site specificity and minimal intervention, their dynamic fruit is balanced by a tension and restraint rarely achieved in the New World. There emphasis at Edmunds St John has always been on Rhone-style wines made primarily from Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Viognier, all of which are very small production. We are thrilled to offer the opportunity to enjoy these wines with food over several courses at Belcourt, a delightful Parisian-style brasserie.  Join us Thursday, May 13th at 7:30 with Steve Edmunds at Belcourt for four courses and at least eight wines! The price is $75 per person including tax and gratuity. 35 seats available - please call or email us to reserve your spot."

Wines my friends brought to the weekend BBQ!

Fate and good fortune.  Thanks to my friends for bringing such great and eclectic wines to our BBQ this past weekend.  Here are a few of the highlights.

Diemersfontein Pinotage 2008  $19.99

I think the label accurately sums up this wine.  It smells like a box of chocolates.  Dark and milk chocolate, mixed with dark candied cherries and smoked sea salt.  Yum!  92 Points.

Pinotage is the signature grape variety of South African reds.  It is a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsaut, know in South Africa as Hermitage, hence the name Pinotage.

I think this is a wine worth searching out, it is very distinctive.  And the price seems pretty reasonable given its quality and unique flavors.  I don't think it is widely distributed in the U.S., but I did happen to find it at KL Wine Merchants.  Might need to order a couple of these.

Naudin Tiercin 2004 Savigny-Les-Beaunes  $22.99

This is an easy going Burgundy.  Red wines from Burgundy are made from the Pinot Noir grape.  It is medium garnet in color with a slight rust color at the edges.  There is a nose of sour cherries and there are rhubarb and fennel flavors as well.  Light tannins and crisp acidity also help define the wine.  I prefer a bit more earthiness in Pinot Noir, but this is still a wine that would pair well with lighter dishes that might require some decent acidity.  86 Points.

Burgundy wines are where the term "terroir" originated.  It is also referred to as "climat" in Burgundy.  The idea of terroir, which is a hot topic in the wine world these days, can apply to any distinct wine growing micro climate.  One of the best examples of how the concept of terroir has impacted the wine world over the past 10-15 years is the growth of single vineyard bottling here in the United States and throughout the world.

Evans and Tate, Margaret River 2004 Semillon

I am not sure this wine is available in the States.  My friend brought it back from a recent trip to Australia.  She swears by this wine and it was great with the BBQ.  The wine was straw yellow in color and there were great citrus elements on the nose.  Flavors of grapefruit, lime, pineapple and pear are mixed with flavors of ginger ale and aged cheese.  Nice round mouth feel and decent tart acidity are also present.  88 Points.

The Semillon grape is commonly used as one of the blending grapes in dry white wine in France's Bordeaux region.  But it is used more famously in the Sauternes region of France to make the ubiquitous sweet Sauternes wine.  Chateau Yquem being the most renowned, and expensive!

Union Square Wines, South African Wine Safari

This is a tasting that I am going to attend this coming Thursday.  It is of South African wines, which are not widely available or appreciated in the U.S., but I can tell you, having visited Cape Town, South Africa three times, that it is an up and coming and very exciting wine region.  And one that represents great quality to value.  The tasting is $20, but Union Square Wines gives you a $10 voucher towards a wine purchase so basically it costs $10.  They are pouring some more limited edition wines, and they are providing snacks and probably some schwag as well.  Further info is available below, but you can click this link to sign up:  Union Square Wines South African Wine Tasting.  Hope to see some of you there! 

Event Date: Thursday, May 06, 7:00pm - 8:30pm Description of tasting: USQ is pleased to welcome Cape Classics founder Andre Shearer to the Salon for our most anticipated South African event of the year. With the World Cup looming and all eyes on South Africa, attendees will get a first hand taste of the pandemonium to come with the man who almost single-handedly introduced fine South African wines to the United States. Join us for an evening with Andre Shearer and Team USQ as we uncork nearly one dozen luxury offerings from the Cape featuring knockout cuvées from De Toren, Klein Constantia, Kanonkop, Rustenberg and more. Reservations are required for this fun and informative South African wine event. Reservations cost a meager $20 and include a $10 wine voucher valid towards purchases the night of the event. At this time reservations are limited to just two per customer please.

López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Rioja, Spain's most traditional winery. Part 2.

Part two of Heredia Tondonia.  The revenge.  The sequel. This installment covers the current red releases as well as the older red vintages poured at the tasting.  I guess I should start out by thanking Monica Nogues of Think Global Wines, the distributor for Heredia Tondonia here in the states.  She is pictured pouring at the tasting, which she did with grace and composure throughout the night.  Thank you Monica!  Well, I raved about the whites, which are truly among the most unique wines produced today, except that they have been produced that way for a very long time.  About the only thing that is not traditional about this winery that I can find is the modern structure which has been literally dropped over an older structure.  But then again, that is Spain.  Think Frank Gehry's Guggenheim Bilbao Museum, for example.  And let's discuss the history of the winery a bit more shall we.  Start with those beautiful old school bottles.  Why are they covered in wire you ask?  Well, good question, they were traditionally covered in wire as an additional protection against fraud.  See, back in the olden days, unscrupulous sorts would uncork and drink the wine in transit and replace it with god knows what.  The wire became an additional precaution to labeled corks and labeled capsules (the foil thing that is usually over the top of the bottle and the cork).  Heredia Tondonia covers the tops of their gran reserva bottlings with wax, as opposed to the standard capsule.  Additional insurance.  Anyway, I think it is time to move onto the reds, which can be equally as interesting as the whites or the history of the Heredia Tondonia.

Heredia  2004 Viña Cubillo Crianza 2004  $29.99
This medium bodied Rioja is garnet in color, with a nose of roses, fresh earth, and pepper cured meats.  It also has good acidity and freshness.  A young traditional Rioja that could pair with almost any type of fair, but a evening of mixed tapas sounds about right.  88 Points.

Heredia 2000 Viña Tondonia Reserva  $49.99
For me this was the star from the reds.  Medium garnet in color, as all the reds turned out to be, not much browning of the edges of these wines, no matter what the age.  There was a slight oxidized quality to this wine on the nose, but it also packs eucalyptus, charred oak sherry barrels, and blood sausage with subtle red fruits and floral aromas.  This wine seems equally mature and young at the same time.  91 Points.

Heredia 2001 Viña Bosconia Reserva  $37.99
This wine is a bit different, the bottle shape suggests a different style of wine as well.  To me, it has hints of a Rhone wine in terms of the fruit.  Medium garnet color with a nose of sour cherry, pomegranate and red cherry.  There is a good round mouth feel and good acidity.  89 Points.

Heredia 1991 Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva  $110.00
This was the first of the older vintages that were opened at the tasting.  There was only one bottle of each and it was great to taste these older wines as they are pretty rare.  The 1991 had a great bright berry quality, a bright garnet color, and good acidity.  There are also flavors of liquorish, black pepper and dried Italian herbs.  90 Points.

Heredia 1985 Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva  $149.99
This wine had a richer quality than the 1991.  There are flavors of grilled meat, and a rose like floral nose.  89 Points.

Heredia 1981Viña Bosconia Gran Reserva  $144.99
Still bright garnet in color, as all the red wines seemed to be.  There were hints of smoked fire, and lots of bright cherry and floral notes.  Good acidity and still drinking very well.  90 Points.

Well that concludes the wines tasted from Heredia Tondonia.  It was an epic tasting, though these wines are not power houses, but rather restrained and subtle wines which leave you searching for the words to describe them.  As María José López de Heredia stated:  "The best wine is the one you cannot describe."

López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Rioja, Spain's most traditional winery. Part 1.

O.K. so more Spain.  Yeah!  Can you tell I love Spain and Spanish wines?  Anyway, on Monday night there was a tasting of wines from López de Heredia Viña Tondia at Union Square Wines.  I can normally get pretty excited by any wine tasting, but this one was truly special.  López de Heredia Viña Tondia, located in the Rioja wine region, is known as Spain's most traditional winery.  Heck, look at their bottles, you don't get more old school than that.  They are beautiful.  And so are the wines.  They are wines of unique character, and represent the singular dedication of a family, a place, and a style of wine making that has changed little since 1877.  I think that they so represent Spain, because Spain is nothing, if not traditional.  As the wines are made in a very traditional manner, they do not taste like anything made in an international modern style, such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay or any other well known grape variety for that matter, especially the white wines.  The whites are done in an oxidated style which takes a bit of getting used to, but in a good experimental way.  And as María José López de Heredia, who was on had to talk about her families wines, said:  "Some people think we oxidize the wine, but we fight the oxidation."  Anyway, they poured all their current, red, white, and rose vintages, as well as a few older vintages.  This was a big tasting of a lot of wines, and there was a great turn out, the place was packed to the rafters.  It was a lot to taste in one night, and it might be a lot to digest for one posting, so I will break it into two postings over a couple days so it doesn't turn into a novel.  Here are the whites and rose tasted:


Heredia 1999 Viña Gravonia Crianza Blanco  $29.99
This was the younger of the two whites served, and for most white wines, this might be considered, over the hill.  And although the wine has an oxidized quality to it, I found it to be very fresh and complex and a pleasure to drink.  This was my favorite out of the white/rose bunch.  The color of this wine in the bottle is so interesting it's a medium rich yellow, with a hint of orange.  There is a sweet honey and pineapple fruit nose.  There is also a nutty almond quality and scents of charred whiskey barrel, caramel, and flint.  This really is an exotic and alluring wine that really breaks you out of the mold of what you have come to expect as a white wine today.  I couldn't recommend trying any of the wines from the tasting more than this one for its uniqueness.  92 Points.


Heredia 1990 Viña Tondonaia Reserva Blanco  $49.99
This white reserva takes us back two decades, and you would think for a white it would be long gone, but you'd be wrong.  Although it is not as fresh as the 1999 Gravonia, it was still surprisingly fresh for its age.  It has a medium rich yellow color, and a fresh citrus nose.  There are hints of white pepper and a bit of tartness on the finish.  It lacked some of the richness of the Gravonia, but was very compelling none the less.  88 Points.

Heredia 2000 Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva Rose  $29.99
An interesting and dry rose, it has a nose of ginger ale and strawberry bubble gum, but is very subtle.  The wine is light and it has a slightly dry finish.  Loved the nose.  85 Points. 

Stay tuned for Part 2, where I will cover the reds and discuss the Tondonia winery a bit further.  Cheers!

Marcato 2007 Barattaro, Pinot Nero

So I met my wife and son at a birthday barbecue at a friend's house last night and was given a glass of red wine.  I didn't ask what it was, thought I would try and guess.  Well I guessed it was Pinot Noir, which is usually a pretty easy red to identify, as it is usually lighter and more delicate than Cabernet, Shiraz, etc.  After my educated guess, I headed over to the bottle and I was right, but it was a Pinot Noir from Italy, known as Pinot Nero.  The wine was the 2007 Marcato Barattaro.  Usually one thinks France or California, or even Oregon for Pinot Noir, but this was a pleasant little surprise from Italy.  Not sure I have had a Pinot from Italy and I don't think they are that common either.  But, I really liked this wine, it was very easy to drink and it had delicate berry and floral aromas, but also backed it up with some nice earthy flavors and decent acidity.  I was able to find out that this is an estate grown Pinot Nero from Veneto, vinified in stainless steel and wood for nine months before aging 16 months in Moldavian oak casks.  This is not the most complex Pinot ever, but it goes a bit further than your average everyday priced Pinot in the flavor department.  Great wine for summer I think as you can pretty much enjoy this with anything from burgers (notice one on the bottom right of the photo!) to fish tacos or a hearty salad.  Drank great on its own as well at the BBQ and I was sad when it ran out.  I asked the host who brought it and she said, in fact, my wife had.  She said she had picked it up at our local shop on he way and had paid $18.  I think this sounds like a fair price for an above average Pinot with some great character.  88 Points.

Five Decades of Bordeaux Tasting

Since I don't have any wine news to write about today, I am going to recap a great Bordeaux wine dinner I had the pleasure of attending in March.  It was a retrospective of five decades of Bordeaux reds, organized by Justin Christoph of Manhattan Wine Company.  Justin is a great host with a wealth of wine knowledge.  It was at Aroma, a sweet little Italian wine bar and restaurant off the Bowery.  We were in their cozy private dining room in the cellar, it was very European!  The food was great, the company was merry, and the wines were simply one of the best wine experiences I have ever had, filled with highs and lows.  Retrospectives always give you a great chance to really understand how wines age.  For the five decades of Bordeaux, we tasted two wines each starting with the 2000's, 1990's, 1980's, 1970's, 1960's.  Here is the run down, we tasted newest to oldest.

Château Léoville-Poyferré 2004
I really liked this wine, though I have always been a fan.  It was a great bargain for a while while it was flying under the radar, but the quality and price have been creeping up over the past decade.  Never the less, it still remains a good value to quality wine.  For a young wine it was already very accessible with a very aromatic nose and flavors of smokey dark fruit.  91 Points.

Château Calon-Ségur 2003
I was expecting a bit more from this wine, it was a bit more on the delicate side than I would have thought.  Light berry and floral aromas and a medium body.  Think it might show better after a few more years in bottle, seemed a bit closed down now.  90 Points.

Château L'Evangile 1994
I was really looking forward to tasting this wine and it did not disappoint.  This is a very unique wine and might not be for everyone due to its myriad characteristics.  Dark in color this dense wine has very earthy flavors, mixed with smokey notes, iron, offal, hoisin, and liquorish.  Wow.  95 Points.

Château Le Gay 1994 
The Le Gay was a more claret like version of the L'Evangile.  More harmonious and classically Bordeaux in character.  A very easy wine to appreciate, it mixes the meaty earthier flavors with some more delicate floral notes. A delicious wine, drinking very well now.  92 Points.

Château Pichon-Baron 1988  
This was the wine of the evening in my book.  I think it exceeded many people's expectations.  The super rich and complex nose grabs you immediately.  There are flavors of dark smokey fruit, spice box, and blood sausage.  The finish is easily 30 seconds long.  This is a profound wine.  An experience really.  97 Points.

Château Léoville-Barton 1988
I thought this wine would show better than it did.  It seemed a bit medicinal.  Offal mixed with an herbaceous quality.  Pretty hard to stand up next to the Pichon-Baron anyway, which it was tasted against.  87 Points.


Château Margaux 1978
This is not a big wine or a great wine, but there really was not much to be that excited about during the 1970's in Bordeaux.  That said, it is a nice classic claret style Bordeaux.  Not as perfumed as Margaux is known to be, but there were some nice delicate floral aromas.  88 Points.

Château Mouton Rothschild 1975
Who knows what this might have been, the bottle was off.  Oxidized/maderized.

Château Haut-Brion 1970
There is such a mythical aura to Haut-Brion, I was really looking forward to trying this wine.  The wine was probably a bit over the hill, but was still very interesting and enjoyable.  There were elements of chocolate and beef stew mixed with caramel and dark dried fruit.  91 Points.

Château Léoville-Las Cases 1961
1961 is one of the most famous vintages in Bordeaux history.  The Léoville-Las Cases has not been regarded as one of the most legendary, but this bottle proved to be very good for a wine nearly half a century old.  There was a sweet caramel nose and hints of smoked fire.  92 Points.

Spanish Wines Continued... Bienvenidos!

Bodegas Las Orcas, Decenio Crianza 2004 Rioja
Astor Wines, $17.99

Bodegas Las Orcas is a great little new discovery.  I first had a bottle of the 2001 Decenio at Mercat, a great Spanish restaurant here in New York.  I tracked down the current vintage on release which is the 2004.  This is a Crianza* Rioja that is done in a more traditional style but which is easily appealing to anyone who loves Spanish wines or Rioja.  Rioja's are typically made 100% from the Tempranillo grape.  The wine is medium bodied with notes of toasted oak, cinnamon, and ripe heirloom tomato.  There are also hints of dark cherry, candied plums, and chocolate.  There is still a fair bit of tannin, which should mellow over the next few years, but has a nice round mouth feel as the tannins melt away.  90 Points.

*Crianza wines require aging in oak barrels at least 12 months with at least another year in the bottle. Reserva wines require 36 months aging between barrel and bottle, with at least 12 months in barrel. Gran Reserva wines require 24 months aging in barrel and a further 36 months in bottle before release.

Mas d'en Gil Priorat, 2002 Clos Fontá
Le Du Wines, $45.99

Another great and interesting wine from the Priorat region in Spain.  The Priorat region is in Catalunya, outside Barcelona.  This wine is a little on the pricier side, but it is an experience.  Even though it is a 2002 and has a little age on it, it is still a very youthful wine with very firm tannins.  When we first opened the bottle it was very closed on the nose and the tannins were very dry in the mouth.  After 20-30 minutes, however, this wine really came alive.  The tannins began to melt away and plush fruit came bursting forth.  There is a sweet toasty oak element to the wine, probably some new oak, and there is a sense of surf and turf on the nose.  The concentration builds on this wine as it opens, there is dark smokey fruit and an almost Amarone, dried grape, quality as well.  Notes of cigar box and dried Italian herbs also linger.  Needless to say, this is a big and powerful wine, 14.5% alcohol, that gets bigger and bigger in the glass.  Brings you back for another sip.  A blend of nearly equal parts Garnacha Peluda, Garmacha Pais, Cabernet, and Cariñena.  93 Points.

Viñedos de Íthaca Tasting @ Chambers Street Wines

I had the good fortune to stop by a great tasting of wines from Spain's Priorat region at Chambers Street Wines. The tasting was with Spanish wine maker Joseph Puig of Viñedos de Íthaca. You can find out more about these wines at their website, but the winery is located in the Priorat region in Spain. The wines are very small production and are primarily crafted by hand by Joseph and his daughter Sílivia. I can tell you that Joseph is an enthusiastic wine maker who is very passionate about his wines and his terroir. Joseph makes a lot of different wines, and while I did not get to taste the entire portfolio, I did manage to try a white, two reds, and a dessert wine. If you are a lover of small lot hand crafted natural wines, these are wines you should check out. There is a great picture of Joseph from the tasting, he is a man with a great taste for wine and for amazing eye wear.

Odysseus 2009, Pedro Ximénez
This unique dry white wine is made from the Pedro Ximénez grape. This is one of the grape varietals used to make Sherry, and is not typically used in dry white wine. I really did not know what to expect but was very pleasantly surprised by this wine. It was so good I wanted to buy some on the spot but they did not have any for sale. But I will be on the hunt for it. The wine has a medium yellow color and a nose of citrus and grapefruit. It has a crisp minerality on the nose as well mixed with sweet floral undertones. It has a nice round mouth feel, and a touch of honeysuckle sweetness on the finish. As Joseph said, "it leaves the mouth clean". This is a wine I could drink everyday during the summer, just delicious. Drinks well on it's own, but could pair with any light summer fare or lighter cheeses. 90 Points.

Aklyes, Red Label 2007
This Rhone like red is made from younger vines and is a blend of Garnacha, Cariñena, and Cabernet. It is aged 10-12 month in 400 liter barrels. It really reminds me a lot of a Cotes du Rhone, but a little less jammy than a Coted du Rhone, which is a good thing. The wine is a rich medium purple in color, there are flavors of bright cherry and plum, chocolate, cassis, and a hint of toasty oak. The fruit really shines in this wine, but without being too overbearing. 89 Points.

Odysseus, Red Label 2002
This exciting red is blend of primarily old vine Cariñena and Garnacha, with smaller doses of Cabernet, Petit Verdot, and Touriga Nacional. It is fermented with piqeage and aged with battonage in 400 liter barrels for 12 months. I found this blend more complex, probably due to the old vines fruit. The nose really grabs you with this wine with a toasty blend of cassis and chocolate. There is dark fruit in there as well. While there are still some tannins to resolve, the wine is balanced with a medium ruby color. The wine is drinking great now, but the tannins suggest it will probably age well over the next ten years or so. A really delicious wine. 92 Points.

Penélope, Garnacha Blanca 2007
This medium bodied dessert wine is a real pleasure to taste. I could imagine it going well with a tangy blue cheese. It has sweet candied citrus and melon on the nose and is medium yellow in color with a medium weight body, not overly syrupy. It has lingering notes of floral and melon. 90 Points.

Burlotto 1995 Barolo Monvigliero

Chambers Street Wines, $44.99

This mature Barolo shows subtle aromas of raspberries and violets, but quickly gives way to tar, petrol, and caramel. Brick in color now, with some subtle garnet in the center. There is a long finish, but it would have been interesting to taste this wine a few years ago when it was probably at its peak. Still always nice to taste a mature Barolo. 88 Points.